The Como Companion

Streetscape 5 -Street and Urban Art in Como City

Posted on September 24, 2016 by comocompanion

The 5th edition of this open air exhibition has ‘invaded’ the streets of Como and will occupy them until November 6th. Streetscape’s aim is to ‘creatively redefine the urban landscape’ having invited established and emerging artists to create works that are site -specific – and the best, notwithstanding the hyperbole, are those that do seem to bear some relation to their background.

For example, the lofty nose of a wooden Pinocchio pointing out to the valleys and mountains from Piazza Cavour links the city to its natural setting and even carries references (points) to the wooden carvings of the Schignano Carnival in the Val D’Intelvi.

Mr. Savethewall…

…in Piazza Cavour

Or the barriers reducing access to the Portico of the Palazzo Broletto whose polychromatic shapes contrast with the monochromatic wartime beach defenses they mimic.

Palazzo Broletto….

by Paolo Ceribelli

Streetscape offers a lot of fun in seeking out the different works across the city. Each work is accompanied by an explanation of the project and a brief biography of the artist – along with a handy map and pamphlet to guide your ongoing search.

Felipe Cardena – Piazza Volta

When I went out to track down the works, I was unable to locate all of them however I was soon aware that I was only one of many residents and visitors traipsing around town following this form of artistic treasure hunt.

Each item does seem to create a mental reaction that is not always necessarily positive. Unfortunately for me the work of Manuel Grosso in Piazza Martinelli seemed without impact maybe due to its uninspiring location (but who knows, that may well be the point it intends to make) whilst Diego Dutto’s fleshy plastic plant was in glorious contrast to the formality of its courtyard setting in the Museo Archeologico Paolo Giovio.

Emanuele Scilleri’s invitation to supplement his graffiti-inspired work in Piazzetta Pinchetti had scored an immediate result with the amateur addition of a cartoon ‘cazzo’. Even this understated piece has ironic touches as in the inclusion of the ‘Area Video sorvegliata’ sticker bottom left.

Diego Dutto – Museo Paolo Giovio

The decision to place Federico Unia’s futuristic urban landscape in the courtyard of the Pinacoteca Civile reminds visitors of the works of Como’s famous son Antonio Sant’Elia whose futuristic architectural drawings are on display at the gallery.

For me however my favourite installation is the series of panels hanging below the windows along the outside facade of the Teatro Sociale done by Giuseppe Veneziano. These witty works make reference to various forms of pictoral iconography and amongst those, my favourite is the playful and very much updated version of Vermeer’s ‘Girl with a Pearl Earring’. However I have not included an image of it below just so you get out to see it (and the numerous other panels) for yourselves. A few of the panels are however shown below.

All told, this is an engaging exhibition that makes great use of its particular urban setting – and the fact that I could not track down all the works offers me a great motive for trying again!

Posted in Art, Culture, Events, Itineraries, Uncategorized | Tagged Antonio Sant'Elia, Art, Broletto, Como, futurism, Lake Como, Pinnocchio, Street art, Streetscape, Teatro Sociale, Urban art, Walks | 3 Comments

Como and Contraband – A Romanticised Legacy?

Posted on August 30, 2016 by comocompanion

The geological layout of Como tends to conceal the fact that it is definitely a border town. That is until political factors, such as the recent Swiss clamp-down on refugee entries, remind us of its physical location. And when those political or economic factors weigh heavy and the border offers more of a goal or an opportunity, so do the risks and challenges in surmounting it.

Border Crossing – Ponte Chiasso

As experienced for example by those Jewish families escaping the racial laws introduced in 1943 or those republicans like Giuseppe Mazzini evading Austrian imprisonment or the many anti-fascists and young men avoiding being drafted into the doomed army of the Republic of Salo or sent as forced labour in the slave economy of the Nazi regime.

So, given the economic pressures during the last war, it is not surprising that local entrepreneurship turned to the opportunities offered by smuggling – sending in basic foodstuffs (predominantly rice and cured meats) into Canton Ticino which suffered massive shortages at that time in exchange for chocolate and, most importantly, cigarettes. And this flourishing contraband market lasted into the 1970s such that many Lombardy residents can recall going to Como, not just to take a pleasant lakeside stroll, but primarily to buy cheap cigarettes.

Swiss’Spalloni’

Not surprising therefore that over time these smugglers and their night-time clandestine activities took on a romantic and mythical nature. After all they went on foot through the forests, in all weathers up beyond the snow line above 1000 metres to descend down into Switzerland and then to return with a rucksack weighing over 30 kgs repeating the uphill climb and descent with the ever-present risk of injury and discovery. They endured a cat and mouse game between themselves known as ‘spalloni’ (literally ‘big shoulders’) and the border troops of the Guardia di Finanza (who were often young, disoriented and lonely young men from the warm South sent here to live from month to month in the remote mountain-top barracks to undertake their years of national service).

Italian comic actor Toto as a ‘contrabbandiero’ playing cat and mouse with the ‘Finanza’.

Both during and after the war the Guardia di Finanza occupied a string of barracks built along the mountain crests along the border. These have now mostly been converted into mountain hostels (rifugi) offering accommodation and food for trekkers. The barracks strung out between Mount Bisbino (above Cernobbio) and Mount Generoso (above the Intelvi Valley) are now known as Rifugio Bugone, Rifugio Murello, Rifugio Binate (now closed) and Rifugio Prabello. These barracks are also situated close to the First World War line of mountain defences designed by General Cadorna and which are still clearly visible at the summit of Mount Bisbino and at Sasso Gordano alongside Rifugio Prabello.

Rifugio Binate

Rifugio Murello

Rifugio Prabello

After the last war, smuggling was a tempting option given the broken state of the local economy and so spalloni would set out by foot from Cernobbio, Moltrasio and Brienno to cross over to villages such as Sagno and Bruzella to fill their rucksacks full and then return to the banks of Lake Como – all the time seeking to avoid detection or capture. A semi-fictional and possibly romanticised account of the life and exploits of a spallone are recounted in a book by Alberto Anzani whose English edition is entitled ‘On the Border’.

Mountain Desolation

Rifugio Binate

Val D’Intelvi

Documented incidents of smuggling recounted by local historian Giorgio Cavalleri include the enterprising use in 1947 of a submersible raft used to smuggle goods on Lake Lugano to and from Gandria. The raft was only detected when its means of propulsion had broken and attempts to scuttle the vessel failed. Cavalleri also reports on the use of smuggling in the last year of the fascist regime to supplement the funds of a secret special operations group based in the sequestered grounds of the Villa D’Este’s golf course on the banks of Lake Montorfano – clearly a highly duplicitous organisation!

Sasso Gordano

A visit to the Swiss Customs Museum at Cantine di Gandria will give a good idea of what life was like for a border guard barracked in one of those isolated mountain locations. The museum is open from April to mid-October from 13.30 to 17.30. Entry is free. Please note that Cantine di Gandria is on the opposite bank of Lake Lugano from Gandria itself but can be accessed from Gandria by ferry.

So what is the legacy of this smuggling history? Firstly it is obvious that not all smuggling has stopped. For many years there was the regular but still illegal transfer of hard cash from Lombardy into Switzerland and into the discrete hands of the Lugano banks. I assume that particular form of smuggling has declined since the recent increase in the transparency of Swiss banking. However local press still recount the occasional stories of individuals caught at the border posts with gold ingots sown into somewhat misshapen jackets. Other than that, we have the use of the old border barracks as hostels for trekkers, we have inherited the mythology of the Spalloni, and, according to recent Guardia di Finanza data, we seem to have the highest level of tax evasion in Lombardy. So maybe old habits die hard.

Posted in Culture, History, Places of interest, Politics, Uncategorized | Tagged Bisbino, Borders, Cigarettes, Como, Gandria, Lake Como, Linea Cadorna, Lugano, Montorfano, Smuggling, spalloni | 3 Comments

Como’s Lacustrial Musical Medley

Posted on July 3, 2016 by comocompanion

There are so many musical events taking place over the next two months in and around Como. Use Como Companion’s calendar to see exactly when, where and what is on offer. We collate details of most of the musical festivals, concerts or recitals taking place on the lake from a variety of local sources. Whilst we do not claim to be entirely comprehensive, we do recommend using our calendar to plan ahead so that your summer-time diaries do not overlook those not-to-be-missed events.

Here is a quick reminder of what is planned from now until the end of August. Firstly, Estival Jazz – the first weekend of this excellent festival has passed but there are still three nights of Jazz in Lugano’s Piazza della Riforma from this Thursday.

Piazza Della Riforma, Lugano

Other festivals that have already started but still with many events to come include:

Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, Bellagio

Como Citta della Musica – with the main event of this festival, Donizetti’s ‘L’Elisir d’Amore’ already claiming critical success (last performance this Tuesday 5th July), there are still many other concerts planned for performance in the Arena of the Teatro Sociale or in other locations such as Villa Grumello.

Bellagio and Lake Como Festival – this highly regarded festival of predominantly classical music, with an extensive calendar of events scheduled from late June to early September, kicked off recently at the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni. Other locations include Tremezzo, Erba and other lakeside locations.

Our Cultural Events page gives more details of these and all the other annual festivals mentioned in this article.

Corpo Musicale di Rebbio, Piazza Duomo, Como

Many of those smaller musical happenings that are a joy to stumble across almost accidentally when out and about in Como are organised by the comune and are listed under the banner of Como LIVE 100e20. Look for listings under this title in our calendar if you don’t want to leave a specific musical experience entirely down to a chance encounter.

Battello Bisbino, Tremezzo

More jazz is on offer courtesy of the Tremezzina Music Festival that runs for four nights from 16th to 20th August. All events are free (details as always in our calendar) although the two events on the Steamboat (Piroscafo) Battello Bisbino may well tempt you into trying out one of their great cocktails.

Urban and indie fans have unfortunately just missed the 3 day Wow Festival in Como but country rock fans should make it over to Lake Pusiano for a Lucinda Williams concert on July 19th.

Saint Abbondio, Como

Back to classical music and on a much smaller scale, there are a series of recitals scheduled for early Saturday evenings in the delightful setting of Como’s splendid romanesque church – Saint Abbondio. These recitals come under the title of Vespri d’Organo and details are as always in our calendar.

Finally, since you will just have missed the early dawn recital at 5.00 am today in the gardens of Villa Grumello, why not plan for the late night recital in Cernobbio’s Villa D’Este Hotel on 24th August organised by the Moltrasio-based Circolo Bellini.

Posted in Culture, Events, Gardens, Lake | Tagged Battello Bisbino, Bellagio, Como, Duomo, Jazz, Lake Como, Lugano, Music, Opera, Rebbio, Teatro Sociale | Leave a comment

A-Bio-Como

Posted on June 22, 2016 by comocompanion

As an immigrant from UK, I never cease to feel grateful for the quality and availability of fresh food here in Como. Maybe that abundance is mostly due to our proximity to the Milanese markets which in turn take advantage of the cultivation offered by the extraordinary altitudinal, latitudinal and climatic variations in Italy. Whatever the reason, let’s be thankful and celebrate what Como has on offer to fresh food fanatics.

Mercato Coperto

Mercato Coperto, Via Sirtori, Como

The Mercato Coperto in Via Sirtori offers a great selection of fresh produce with stalls open on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday but with some of the shops inside remaining open for the whole week.

There is a wide range of products on sale including fish and meat stalls, bakers, cheese and salumi as well as fruit and vegetables. It is colourful and lively and well worth a visit even if you are just passing through Como just to experience what food shopping should be about. One of its strengths is the range of stalls and the variety of price/quality options they represent.

Within the Mercato Coperto there is an entire section marked off for local producers some selling local specialities such as lake fish, missoltin and local cheeses whilst others sell locally grown fruit and vegetables or locally reared meat and poultry. Even though some of these producers may be organic, they are all scrupulously ecological having to be based within a defined kilometre range of the city.

Via Cinque Giornate

Via Cinque Giornate seems to be the ‘bio’ centre within Como’s old town. There may well be others with a bio offer but here within 20 metres of each other are two rigorously ‘bio’ establishments.

Interior of Le Golose Imperfezioni, Via Cinque Giornate, 49

The first – ‘Le Golose Imperfezioni’ is primarily a bio bakery but with a range of economical and tasty options available for lunch or take away.

Just down the road is ‘La Fonte della Vita’ also with packaged products on sale alongside a range of lunchtime dishes on offer.

Interior of ‘La Fonte della Vita’ Via Cinque Giornate 56

Or you may just want to ensure your mid-morning or after lunch coffee is organic. Both these cafes will provide organic coffee but you could also stroll down to the cafe at Piazza Mazzini, 16 where you may also be tempted by vegan dishes or pomegranate juices.

Out of town

Those looking for certified and fresh bio fruit and vegetables will have to venture outside of the walled centre and either visit the weekly Bio market held on Saturday mornings or make a trip to the shop run by the organisers of the market – the ‘La CortoBottega’ run by the Co-operative Association called Corto Circuito (who also seem to have the franchise for providing refreshments at a number of organised events in Como such as the current Parolario running at Villa Olmo).

The market is held on Saturdays from 08.00 to 12.30 in Via Salvadonica 3 which runs off of Via Varesina just after the Gloria Cinema. Here you will find bread, cheese, fruit, vegetables, honey and organic products from further afield such as organic wine and oil.

The CortoBottega is at the co-operative’s headquarters in Lipomo at Via Grassi 361. It is open on Tuesdays and Fridays only from 15.00 to 19.00. Corto Circuito can also organise weekly organic food baskets for collection or for delivery.

Bio Supermarkets

Whilst all supermarkets these days have organic sections, there are an increasing number of super or mini markets entirely devoted to organic products. This is my list of those I am aware of but please let me know of any others that I need to list:

Mirtilla, Via Borsieri 21, Como
Piacere Terra, Strada Statale dei Giovi 5, Casnate con Bernate
NaturaSi, Via Pasquale Paoli 80, Como.

Posted in Culture, Food, Places of interest, Sustainability | Tagged bio, Como, Lake Como, markets, organicfood, slowfood | 1 Comment

The Three Nautical Graces

Posted on June 6, 2016 by comocompanion

The Three Nautical Graces – Milano (top) Patria (left and Concordia (right)

A trip on Lake Como in any of Como’s three nautical graces will excite the senses and imagination. The combination of setting, fine weather and illimitable style, – with these elements in perfect alignment – will imprint a lifetime memory of charm and beauty.

The setting speaks for itself through the millions of images of lake and mountain through its varied moods and seasons. The weather is as ever in the hands of the fickle Gods but the style of these steamers is at its secular best. The jut of their vertical bows and low-slung lines convey the spirit of their age – fluidity and ease, poise and arrogance, luxury and decadence.

A pair of twins and an elder sister.

Milano

Milano is the elder sister. She entered service as a lake steamer in 1904 but her engines were converted to diesel as early as 1925 with the unfortunate effect at the time of causing her to tremor. All lake transport was a target for wartime bombing by the allies so Milano laid up hidden under camouflage for a couple of years in the gap between Isola Comacina and Ossuccio. The grand old lady kept running to the Tavernola shipyards for updates and revisions in the 50s and 60s with a complete overhaul in 1989 with a return to regular service from 1991. She has had so many makeovers and face-lifts over the years that little of her original structure remains apart from her lines and the way she lies in the water. She is still in regular service on the Navigazione Laghi’s summer schedule as well as being available for private hire. Follow link for details.

Patria

Patria

Patria and Concordia are twins and both were launched in 1926. Wartime was hard on these boats and Patria once came under allied fire causing her to run aground at Gravedona. She was originally called ‘Savoia’ but changed her name on the fall of the fascist regime. The royal house of Savoy had been held responsible for supporting Mussolini and was too closely associated with the fascist regime. ‘Concordia’ on the other hand had the even less imaginative name of ’28 Ottobre’ being the date of Mussolini’s so-called March on Rome. Alongside the multitude of reasons for celebrating the demise of the dictatorial regime, we can also count the renaming of this glorious boat.

Patria before her renovation

Patria was last in service in 1990. She was saved from demolition and purchased by the Province of Como, restored and re-opened for the occasional evening cruise and visits from July 2013. Currently she lies docked on the Villa Olmo pier and seems either rarely open or in action in spite of her steam engines having been fully restored. Her ownership may well pass in to the hands of Navigazione Laghi who hopefully will be better able to exploit her potential.

Concordia

Concordia before her name change

Concordia is undoubtedly the pride of the Lake Como fleet. She originally entered service alongside her twin sister ‘Patria’ in 1926 under her previous shameful name of ’28 Ottobre’. She has been entirely renovated inside and out with full working steam engine and paddles.

Three aspects of Concordia

The interior has been renovated in the original late ‘Liberty’ style. Thanks to the new replacement boilers, Concordia will under full steam be able to maintain the modern day schedules when she re-enters normal service. She will also be available for private hire. Contact Navigazione Laghi for further information. Her renovation was planned to be completed in time for Milano Expo 2015 but let’s just be grateful that the delay caused by supplier issues and official approvals was no longer than a year. Look out for the plume of smoke from her funnel as her bow cuts through the water when she officially starts service later this month.

Interior of Concordia with steam pistons bottom right.

Posted in History, Lake, Places of interest, Transport | Tagged boat hire, Como, lagodicomo, Lake Como, laketourism, piroscafi, steamboats | Leave a comment

Como – Its Role in the Birth of a Nation

Posted on May 30, 2016 by comocompanion

The Republic Day holiday comes up on June 2nd to celebrate the result of the referendum held on June 2nd 1946 to determine the constitutional form of the Italian state following the overthrow of fascism. I thought this ‘national’ celebration might provide a sufficient hook to consider Como’s role in the birth of the Italian nation, at a particular moment when it took a radical lead alongside Milan and Brescia in the Lombardy/Veneto insurrection against the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Piazza Vittoria, Como

The photo above is taken from behind the Swiss sculptor Vincenzo Vela’s statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi in Piazza Vittoria looking alongside the city walls to the Porta Torre and Viale Carlo Cattaneo. Now view the painting by Francesco Capiaghi depicting the same area but, as the title states, commemorating a very special event – the surrender of the Austrian army to the Comaschi insurrectionists on the 22nd March in that year of European-wide rebellion, 1848.

Francesco Capiaghi – Dopo la resa. Como 22 marzo 1848

Similar popular uprisings referred to subsequently as the 5 days (cinque giornate) famously took place in Milan and for a slightly longer period in Brescia. Como’s uprising was significant – a prelude to the prolonged struggle for independence that would culminate locally in Garibaldi’s defeat of the Austrian army just outside of Como at San Fermo in 1859 – henceforth known as San Fermo della Battaglia.

The Cinque Giornate

Back on the 18th March 1848, inspired by insurrectionists in Milan, Como citizens began to gather around the then Town Hall (in renamed Via Cinque Giornate) to demand the setting up of a Civil Guard, a risky act of open insurrection given the number of Austrian troops in at least 5 separate barracks around the town. However the foreign occupation seemed to unite various strata of civil society from aristocrats, students, artisans alongside the early stirrings of an urban proletariat all under the leadership of their town councillors.

The old Town Hall in Via Cinque Giornate, Como. INSET: Plaque commemorating the town councillors who led the revolt.

On the 20th March , physical and moral support for the rebels came from a group of exiles and volunteers from Switzerland who, on arriving at Villa Olmo, faced up to an Austrian army patrol forcing them back into barracks. The rebel numbers were later augmented by a further 500 volunteers and arms arriving by steam boat from around the lake. Meanwhile additional Austrian troops were sent up from Mariano Comense and Cantu to the barracks in the ex-convent of San Francesco (the remaining part of which is now the Spazio Ratti Exhibition Hall). The Austrians demanded the immediate disbandment of the Civil Guard. The demand was ignored.

: Villa Olmo and the San Francesco Convent (now the Spazio Ratti DExhibition Hall)

Later on the 20th, following another attack on an Austrian patrol, the Austrian regiments left the San Francesco barracks to pursue the insurrectionists up Via Milano. However their progress was hampered and finally repulsed by citizens pelting the troops with stones and roof tiles alongside a return of gunfire. They returned to barracks. Other attempts by the Austrian regiments from the other barracks within the walled town were also repulsed but both sides suffered injuries and fatalities.

Westside of Via Milano outside the city walls looking north and south

Via Giulini, ex-Trattoria di Soccorso

By 21st March, the Civil Guard had seized 800 rifles from those troops who had surrendered. Emboldened by their success, they attempted to attack the San Francesco barracks but the Austrians responded firmly and it was the citizens this time who were repulsed. The wounded were brought to the Osteria del Soccorso in Via Giulini for treatment. This building still houses a bar/cafe.

By the morning of 22nd March, the Austrian army, holed up in the San Francesco barracks without food (the Como rebels had seized control of the military bakery right at the start of the uprising) and still facing a seriously hostile opposition, were ready to surrender thus giving up their regimental banner to the victors – the civilians of Como.

This was the only regimental banner lost by Austria throughout all the insurrections across Lombardy/Veneto in the tumultuous years of 1848 and 49.

Plaque on the Garibaldi statue in Piazza Vittoria depicting the surrender of the Austrian regiments

Why 5 days in Como?

The silk industry had not yet been established in Como by 1848. The urban proletariat hardly existed at that time but Como stood out as one of the centres of popular insurrection. Why? Maybe one aspect was Como’s location as a border town, its vicinity to the Swiss Confederation, and the porosity of the borders that not only facilitated smuggling and the passage of exiles but also the exchange of political ideas and propaganda emanating from the many Italians who had fled into Switzerland.

: Mazzini’s bust in Piazza Mazzini, Como

And in particular, the influence of one of those exiles – Giovanni Mazzini who through his organisation ‘La Giovine Italia’ had influenced many of the intellectuals and aristocrats in the Como area. He even tried to organise a further uprising in Como in 1849 but unification had to wait a further ten years for the combination of the House of Savoy, the support of republican France, the political genius of Cavour and the military genius of Garibaldi to finally secure the risorgimento.

Medal awarded to participants in the Cinque Giornate revolt.

Capiaghi’s painting and many memorabilia from the ‘Cinque Giornate’ and other episodes in the struggle for independence are on view at Como’s Museo Civico Storico Giuseppe Garibaldi in Piazza Medaglie d’Oro 1. The museum, like all the other civic museums, is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10.00 – 18.00 with an entry fee of €4.00. Note however that entry is free on June 2nd (Republic Day) and also on June 5th being the first Sunday of the month.

Posted in Culture, Events, History, People, Places of interest, Politics | Tagged 1848, Capiaghi, Cinque Giornate, Garibaldi, Mazzini, Risorgimento | Leave a comment

Tribute to Marco Pannella

Posted on May 20, 2016 by comocompanion

Marco Pannella – Radical Party Politician, 1930 – 2016

Yesterday (19th May 2016) an extraordinary politician died of cancer in a Rome hospital. He was Marco Pannella. Italian politics does not and will not feature heavily on this site but Pannella was special, even inspirational – and he was a rebel with a long list of causes. His campaigns over the years since he entered politics in 1955 include: fighting for referenda on divorce and abortion, insisting on true separation of church and state, the legalisation of soft drugs, prisoner rights, euthanasia, the right to conscientious objection and on the international stage against capital punishment, equal rights or any other form of judicial or non-judicial oppression.

He seemed totally unafraid to take on any power group which led him to imprisonment in Sofia, Bulgaria in 1968 for leafleting against the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia and on to countless other arrests and confinements. In my opinion he shares a similar moral stature to other remarkable figures in recent Italian history such as the magistrates, Falcone and Borsellino.

Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino

He had a strong belief in non-violence and so perfected non-violent forms of protest like the hunger strike as a means of garnering publicity and ensuring a bigger media impact for him, the Radical Party and Radio Radicale.

marco pannella in 1974 campaigning for the divorce referendum

Marco Pannella, 1974 campaigning for the referendum on divorce

There are ‘buoni’ and ‘cattivi’ in all areas of public life in all countries but I feel in Italy that the buoni such as Pannella, Borsellino and Falcone (and numerous others, of course) stand out especially for their courage, humanity and essential modesty.

Pannella lived his radical ideals also in his private life within a so-called open relationship with his partner whilst admitting to 3 or 4 significant gay relationships.

I am happy to lead the blog down this brief political diversion to honour exemplary individuals such as Marco Pannella who sit within a truly admirable Italian tradition of service to the oppressed or disadvantaged as evident through modern history; through from the heroes and victims of the risorgimento, to Giacomo Matteotti and Antonio Gramsci , the partisan resistance to occupation, Paolo Borsellino and Giovanni Falcone and all the other opponents to organised crime, exploitation and corruption.

Marco Pannella 1930 – 2016

Posted in History, People, Politics | Tagged #heroes, Como, MarcoPannella, partisans, Politics | 1 Comment

European Opera Days at Como

Posted on May 5, 2016 by comocompanion

The Teatro Sociale in Como is proud to be the first Italian opera house to participate in the annual European Opera Days which this year are held from 6 – 8th May. Now in its tenth year, this initiative, organised by Brussels-based Opera Europa, is held as close to Europe Day as possible.

Teatro Sociale, Como

Ex UK residents like me may well have been previously entirely unaware of Europe Day held on May 9th to celebrate the creation of the European Union in 1950. Maybe our ignorance stretches to not recognising some of the more important Italian players on the European political scene. Mouse over the images to reveal their names!

Federica Mogherini, EU Foreign Affairs and Security Representative

Mario Draghi, President European Central Bank

What better way to put soul behind the union flag than celebrating an emotional artform like opera, which shares common appreciation with positive connotations across Western and Eastern Europe.

With the common theme of ‘Theatre of the World’ what do European Opera Days bring to Como? Primarily it brings a series of free events across a range of glorious locations involving musicians from local schools, colleges, the Music Conservatory, Teatro Sociale and other musical associations. The full program is downloadable from this link but I would particularly like to mention the delightful sounding (weather permitting) ‘Passeggiata Musicale’ this Sunday starting at 11.00 with West Side Story in the Villa Olmo Gardens. Move on to the Villa Grumello greenhouses for Music of The World Part 1 at 12.30.

Villa Grumello Gardens

Then take a picnic on the lawn overlooking the lake with produce available from the Bio co-operative Corto Circuito before moving on to Villa Sucota for Music of the World Part 2 at 14.30. Finish off the passeggiata at the amazing Villa Bernasconi in Cernobbio for a series of recitals starting at 16.00 including piano for 2, 4 and 6 hands.

Broadening our scope back to Europe, and just to finally convince those Euro-sceptics we have in UK and elsewhere that EU collaboration offers enrichment for all (and lower roaming costs!) try out the new Opera Platform website which gives access to live HD streaming of many of the European Opera Day events from other cities. Live performances start on Friday evening but all transmissions are available on demand for a further six months

Posted in Culture, Events, Gardens, Uncategorized | Tagged Como, Lake Como, Opera, Teatro Sociale | Leave a comment

Cycling and Sustainability – NOW and the Future

Posted on May 4, 2016 by comocompanion

This weekend, from Friday to Sunday, the NOW Festival, (a series of workshops, presentations, concerts and other varied events on the theme of a sustainable future) takes place in Villa Erba, Cernobbio. Many if not most of the events will be in Italian (as is their web site) but that will not hold back the committed or, for that matter, prevent appreciation of the music! Entrance for the daytime symposiums ranges from zero on Friday to €6 on Saturday and Sunday. The evening concerts on Saturday and Sunday cost €10 and €15 respectively. Check the website for details of the various events.

Villa Erba – childhood summer home of film director, Luchino Visconti

The NOW Festival is supported by the Province of Como and both Como and Cernobbio town councils. Their active involvement shows a heartening commitment at least to discussing aspects of a sustainable future – but what about actions for the present. What, for example, could be more ecologically sound than supporting bike sharing schemes as in Como and now also in Cernobbio? Is not this proof of a willingness to turn talk into action? Maybe, but unfortunately the good intention is betrayed by appalling execution.

Bike sharing stand, Piazza Cavour

Residents in Como may wonder why the Bike&Co bikes in Como are more often seen in their neat parked rows rather than on the open road. How can this be in a city with so many visitors in addition to residents needing to get about. After all most of our visitors have seen and often used bike sharing schemes in cities across Europe from Valencia to Vienna or Manchester to Marseilles. But when they hit Como, their initial enthusiasm on seeing that also we do bike sharing surely turns to disillusion when they attempt to access the service.

Why? Because a number of hurdles have to be overcome before you can unlock a bike from its stand. Firstly you need to subscribe to the service prior to accessing a bike. However this cannot be done by simply putting a credit card into a card reader as would suffice elsewhere in Europe.

But fortunately there is an Android or IOS app for smart phones. With luck you get sufficient bandwidth to download the app but then you note there is no English language variant (as there is for buses, trains and car-sharing in Como).

No bike at the Funicular bike stand.

OK so you can figure out you need to register and that goes fine until you come across the field for ‘codice fiscale’. We residents know all about that, but a visitor on a one-day stopover? You ignore this strange request but unfortunately your attempt to register is blocked. No bike.

Then you note on the billboard and pamphlet that you can also subscribe by applying at Bike&Co’s offices on Via Volta, 45. You take a pleasant walk around the old centre and get to Via Volta 45 but the Bike&Co office has long since moved on.

Still not prepared to admit defeat, you walk back to one of the Tourist Info-points where the helpful staff tell you that the subscription can only be done in the newsagent’s at the S. Giovanni railway station. Maybe this is exactly where you arrived in Como two hours ago before you started out on this charade.

bike&CO access How might visitors react to such shortcomings? Possibly with a shrug and a patronising ‘How quaint’ or more likely with a colourful expletive and considerable irritation. But let’s not end on a negative note. Fortunately Como can offer more accessible ecological alternatives to car or taxi as reported on our Transport page (but note that I have not included bike sharing among them). As for the future, try out the NOW Festival this weekend in Villa Erba, Cernobbio. The daytime proceedings may mostly be in Italian but there are no language barriers to appreciating the intent and the commitment or, for that matter, to enjoying the evening entertainment.

The newsagent’s shop at Saint Giovanni Station

Posted in Sustainability, Transport, Uncategorized | Tagged Bike sharing, Como, Sustainability | 2 Comments

Up in the Hills – Prehistoric Como

Posted on April 28, 2016 by comocompanion

As an escapee from London, I now cannot envisage living in a city where, from its centre, I can’t easily see and reach its green periphery, e.g. Norcia in Umbria but of course particularly Como where, to the east sits Brunate and to the west Monte Croce and the Parco Spina Verde.

Via Lambertenghi, Como

As you climb out of the town on either side, the sounds of the city, the asthmatic sirens, the general noise of urban activity subside and are replaced by the occasional rustle of a lizard in the undergrowth, bird song and other more contemplative murmurings of nature. And up here is where you will find evidence of Como’s antecedents, who, even in prehistoric times, were attracted to this strategic location and the advantages it offered for trade. But they were resolutely mountain people since Como’s foundations were not laid down until the Romans developed it in the first century BCE.

Golaseccan settlement Parco Spina Verde, Como.

Recreation of a Golaseccan interior , Parco Spina Verde by the Baita Pianvalle

Within the Parco Spino Verde there is a path laid out for visiting some of these prehistoric sites.

Signage in both English and Italian explains aspects of these bronze age settlements and the Golasecca culture of its inhabitants. The Golaseccans occupied the arc of the pre-Alps and Ticino canton and prospered through the Bronze to the early Iron Age. They left a mass of material for archaeologists to uncover and, as a result, the Prehistory section of Como’s Archaeology Museum contains a rich collection of Golaseccan artifacts including the three-armed vase shown below.

Three-armed vase with stamped decoration, from Ca’ Morta end of 6th century BCE. Museum of Archaeology, Como.

This vase and most of the other finds from this period were uncovered in the series of cemeteries known as Ca’ Morta (House of the Dead) between modern-day Monte Lucino and Brebbia to the south of Como. The most impressive item on display has to be the funeral cart.

Funerary Cart, Ca’ Morta circa 450BCE. Como Museum of Archaeology.

The museum’s collection is large and significant as befits an area with a rich bronze age heritage but not all is necessarily displayed to best effect – lighting, signage and language variants could all possibly be improved upon.

Como from the Parco Spina Verde

These bronze age ancestors owed their success roughly from the 6th to the 2nd century BCE due to their trading links with the Etruscans to the south, the Venetians to the east and the Celts to the north. The gradual growing dominance of the Celts tended to diminish the ‘international’ trade and the area lost some importance until the Romans established Novum Comum in the 1st century BCE by clearing the swamp and laying the foundations of the modern city as we know it. The establishment of Novum Comum marked the transition from hilltop to lakeside settlement and to an entirely new chapter in Como’s history.

Como’s Museum of Archaeology

The Archaeological Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10.00 – 18.00. Entrance costs €4, €2 for the over 65s, €1 for students from 12-18 and free for children under 12. The museum, along with the other civic museums in Como, gives free entry to visitors on the first Sunday of every month.

Posted in History, Places of interest | Tagged Como, Golasecca, Lake Como | 1 Comment

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