This is an easy, relaxing walk traversing those communities which grew alongside the ancient Roman way called the Via Regina. We are on the west side of Lake Como south of Argegno in the area marked by luxury villas on the lakefront and long-established villages on the steep lower slopes of the surrounding mountains. The path itself is labelled as part of the ‘Cammini della Regina’ and their signposting is clear and accurate. Additionally what appears to be one of the ‘pro loco’ groups have named this stretch the Via Verde and have provided green painted spots on the ground to show the way.
Both the ‘Cammini della Regina’ or the ‘Via Verde’ green spots follow exactly the same route.
Being based in Como, I did this walk by taking the C10 bus from Como to Laglio and then walking back in the direction of Como to Moltrasio. From there it’s possible to extend the walk to Cernobbio by following the ‘Sentee di Sort’ (see images at this link) which takes you past the old Moltrasio stone quarries to Rovenna, the village that sits above the gardens of the Villa D’Este. Walk down the hill to take the urban bus back into the centre of Como or one of the lake boats.
Get off the bus at Laglio’s town hall (the municipio) and walk back to the small harbour that runs alongside the northern wall of a famous film actor’s property. Immediately across the road from the harbour entrance is the start of the ‘Via Verde’ with a climb up a stepped path into the old part of the town.
From this point on, the path is predominantly flat with perhaps a gentle climb up a further 100 metres by the time you reach the Trattoria del Fagiano at Moltrasio. The total distance is about 9km and so can be comfortably covered in 1.5 hours.
The main attraction along the way is a constant view of the lake over to the communities of Faggeto Lario, Torno and finally Blevio along the road from Como to Bellagio. Equally appealing though are the glances down over the rooftops into the gardens of the old communities of Laglio, Carate Urio and then finally Moltrasio.
The land alongside the path has been terraced from way back when agriculture was the main village occupation. Olive trees still occupy some of these terraces although the majority no longer provide space for cultivation unless they form part of domestic gardens.
When you have left Laglio, the path follows a series of chapels which continue once you have used the underpass to cross over the main road known as the Via Nuova Regina. The chapels end up at a cemetery and the romanesque church of Santa Marta. This is just one of the many panoramic spots along your route.
The ‘Via Verde’ route ends at the modern piazza which houses the Trattoria del Fagiano at its northern end. Depending on how you have timed your walk, you may wish to eat here. In preference I would descend into the old town of Moltrasio and eat at the Cooperativa Moltrasino – a genuine trattoria which offers good quality at reasonable prices.
If you wish to continue walking, just continue along the road (very limited traffic) that runs past the Trattoria del Fagiano going south. After about 1 kilometre the road takes a sharp bend around a mountain stream. Take the path on the right side of the road to see a marvellous water fall behind the vegetation. Continue up the road to join the path known as ‘Sentee di Sort’ to get to Rovenna. Sentee di Sort is local dialect for the ‘Terraces Path’.
There is a detailed website showing the route and the features of the Cammini della Regina. Follow this link. If you start the walk in the other direction, it is possible to avoid the main road apart for a very brief moment in Laglio as far as the delightful town of Brienno. Laglio to Brienno may well form a follow-up to this article.